about 275k to Santiago
After a days rest got off to a brisk start out of León. My feet felt great after a days rest, and my back too. Even my throat is begining to feel like normal. However everyone else seems to be coming down with the sniffles and sore throat. I mentioned Michel looking miserable yesterday. Well, Brian met me at the front door this am looking for decongestants and the name of the emergen-C type stuff I have been taking. And while Veera started out relatively fine this am (she has blisters on her heels and cannot wear her boots) by the time we arrived in Hospital de Órbigo she was hoarse and had little appetite (worrisome to me because there is not much of her to start with). Another pilgram here also has same symptoms, so I went to the farmacia for 3 boxes of the vitamin c stuff.
Other than that it was a gorgeous day. Another beautiful sunrise from the bridge looking back over the city. Once we got out of León the landscape began gradually changing. More hills, smaller fields, more trees-though still no fruit treees.
Again took an altermate path away from the road, again saw virtually no one on the camino but today I walked with Veera. Enjoyed having someone to talk to but also be quiet with. Mountains closer, a breeze.
The small towns we passed through had a more modern feel. Another interesting cluster of bodegas built into a hillside. About 12:30 got to Mazarife, a possible destination. Had a fantastic hot, thin, plate-sized tortilla for lunch. Still felt great so went on.
Soon we were walking between tall fields of dried man-sized cornstalks, our expansive views narrowing dramatically. The breeze was quite brisk and the rustle of the cornstalks was fantastic, like rain. We stopped to just listen. From a bridge crossing a railway you could see the ripple of the wind in the stalks tops, and the trees were all aflutter, the silver underside of the leaves visable.
There was a lovely approach to the town of Hospital de Órbigo, a very long ancient bridge. Off to one side was the historic medival jousting grounds.
Veera and I both loved the town, and when we got there, the albergue San Miguel. Miguel who runs the albergue was very welcoming and very relaxed. There is an easle , canvas and paints which you are welcome to use. The walls of the albergue are decorated with pictures other pilgrims have painted.
Went out to the farmacia and to get bread. The panaderia was closed, but when I asked when it would open someone went and got the owner who led me in the back door and GAVE me a loaf of bread and a square of something like a flat meat pie that was filled with tuna and tomatos, and wished me a buen camino. It was a lovely little shop with a wood carved sign. Panaderia Alonso.
Only about 8 pilgrims staying at the albergue so very quiet. As the computer had a card reader I was able to upload a few pictures and answer emails. Sent an email to Guylène saying we were at Hospital de Órbigo and that everyone was sick, and I got a frantic call from her, as she was thinking we were all IN the hospital. Good laugh, and lovely to hear her musical voice.
13 Oct 2009